The perspective of a native Washingtonian on the island of San Juan.
It never ceases to amaze me how many people I talk to who have never ever heard of the San Juan Islands. The archipelago may be found tucked away in the upper corner of the Pacific Northwest, and it is only a stone's throw away from Canada. It is home to some of the most peaceful scenery I've ever seen. There are a number of islands that are worth seeing, but the one that has always been our favourite is San Juan Island because of its size. During the course of a single day, you have the opportunity to observe waves forcefully colliding with rugged, windswept coasts, wander through the forests, stroll through a lavender field, and then sit down to a dinner that was prepared with locally sourced ingredients.
People typically drive, bike, or walk to the ferry terminal in Anacortes, which is located around one and a half hours north of Seattle. Nevertheless, a short trip in a light aircraft is also an option for getting there. You can grab a cup of coffee from the café that is located inside the ferry, or you can spend some time out on the deck, where you can feel the fresh, salty air whipping around you and take in the breathtaking view of the ocean dotted with islands covered in forest.
Equally enticing is the fact that you do not need to be very outdoorsy or athletic (I am neither) in order to appreciate the natural scenery, which is shared by a variety of animals and birds, including deer, foxes, and hundreds of different species of birds. If you keep your eyes peeled, you might be able to catch a glimpse of a bald eagle flying through the air or the gradual arc of an orca breaching the water's surface. Because of President Obama's designation of the area as a national monument in 2013, those who visit are obligated to show proper stewardship of the surrounding area.
Friday Harbor is a quaint, walkable, and boutique-filled neighborhood on the island, and that is where the ferry makes its stop. You can find parking right when you get off the ferry, and then you can wander up the main street, which is lined on both sides by restaurants, stores, and galleries that are independently owned. I really enjoy going to the farmers market early on a Saturday morning (the market is open from April until October) to pick up some baked goods and listen to live acoustic music.
I'm not a biker by any stretch of the imagination because the thought of riding a bike in a large city gives me the willies, but the San Juan Islands Scenic Byway, which goes all the way around the island, tempts me to give it a try. If you don't already have a bicycle, you may either rent one or go on a tour with a guide. I haven't attempted to walk the entire circumference of the island, but even travelling the short distance from False Bay to Cattle Point takes you by wide open spaces, idyllic farms, and rocky beaches. My calf muscles are being tested to their limits, but the thought of the breathtaking views that await me at the top of the steep hills motivates me to keep going. At one particular location, you will climb an extremely steep slope, and then all of a sudden you will be able to view the ocean in every direction for as far as the eye can see. The fact that I can never be sure of exactly when it will arrive is part of the prize for me.
Gorgeous hike up Mt. Constitution this morning. A view of the San Juan Islands from Orcas Island, Washington. pic.twitter.com/4XV60whr3y
— Nick Knudsen 🇺🇸 (@NickKnudsenUS) March 23, 2021
There are a number of easy to moderate routes, such as the 3.6-mile Mount Finlayson circle, that give a more peaceful way to take in the scenery of the woodlands and visit the overlooks. Lime Kiln Point State Park, which gets its name from the crumbling kilns that date back to the 19th century and are located on the park's grounds, features additional walking trails. You are encouraged to take your time while visiting the park thanks to its many winding routes. During one of our hikes, we came across a brown and fluffy owl that was perched in a tree a few feet away from the path. Before you go, make sure to visit the lighthouse that dates back a century; it's around 300 yards away from the parking area. From this vantage point, I've also been able to see a few whales (and viewing them from the land is less disruptive than by boat). When you get there just before sunset, the sky will turn a rose-pink colour as the sun sets behind the low clouds.
The surface of the ocean provides the clearest and most immersive perspective of the surrounding environment. We have participated in the activity by renting kayaks, which is a lot of fun because you can go at your own pace. Nevertheless, there are a lot of guided kayaking and paddle boarding trips available for people who would rather paddle with an experienced guide.
The island has a low-key vibe, but it actually has top-tier dining options, many of which are located in quaint craftsman houses and other humble settings. But, you may customize your stay to be as lavish or as informal as you prefer throughout your time there. In addition to going to the farmer's market, it is customary for our group to make the first stop after arriving at Bakery San Juan for some freshly baked bread and sweets.
There are a number of restaurants on the San Juan Islands that get their seafood from local producers like Westcott Bay Shellfish, which is also an interesting place to visit in its own right. We went there while the pandemic was at its height since we knew they had picnic tables outdoors overlooking the water. We took a stroll along the dock and looked at the people who were tending to the oyster farms that were located directly on the beach before we sat down to eat lunch. (It appeared as though we were watching a documentary about food.) Returning at our table, we slurped down a half dozen crisp, clean oysters — raw and grilled — along with a glass of white wine, and it was probably the most relaxed I'd felt in months. That was probably the most relaxing I'd felt in months.
The cuisine at Coho Restaurant, which serves upmarket dinners, highlights locally sourced products such as sweet onions, heirloom carrots, and mussels fished right there on the island. The cuisine of the nearby restaurant Duck Soup, which has been there for more than four decades and is still going strong, is also focused on regional produce and boasts cocktails with wildflower garnishes that are fit for a princess. Everelse tasting lounge and wine bar offers artisan cheeses and meats, which customers can enjoy in the sunny wine garden as a lighter alternative to the heavier meal that is also available.
We never leave the island without making at least one stop to Roche Harbor, which is home to an opulent hotel housed in a building dating back to the 19th century and with white wraparound balconies that serve as the backdrop for a shopping complex and harbour loaded with yachts. For this reason, a significant number of engaged couples select it as the location of their wedding (The Knot even included it in their "Best of Weddings" hall of fame).
The harbour is home to a number of acclaimed dining establishments. We went to Madrona Bar & Grill for lunch one day and had a hearty meal of fish and chips along with some light beer on the deck that overlooks the water. It was a wonderful experience. Traditional fine dining is offered at McMillin's Dining Room, which also features an extensive wine list and, according to the menu, "10-hour roasted prime rib" on weekends. If you're looking for something fancier, McMillin's Dining Room is the place to go. A canon is fired over the port at the exact moment when the sun is about to set as part of a "colours ceremonial," which takes place in the evenings during the summer.
As is the case with dining establishments, you have a wide variety of alternatives when it comes to lodging, including everything from five-star resorts like Roche Harbor Resort to home rentals found on websites like Airbnb and Vrbo to traditional camping as well as "glamping" (a friend of mine raved about renting a yurt at Lakedale). Many of the resorts also offer multi-bedroom houses that are perfect for hosting large groups on vacation. If you really want to get into the spirit of outdoor activity, I highly recommend checking out the grounds at the quaint Snug Harbor Resort. The resort provides its visitors with free use of kayaks, canoes, paddleboards, and bikes right on the premises.
A seaside fire pit, a grill, and crab cookers are available for use by guests who would like to prepare a dinner on the spot using fresh seafood. Crab fishing trips into the sheltered bay on my uncle's fishing boat, which he kept docked at the marina, are among the most pleasant of my childhood recollections. You won't be too far away from either the town or the trails, regardless of where you choose to stay; nonetheless, having a car is highly recommended in this area.
No of the number of times I've been to San Juan Island, there are always new experiences and sights that take my breath away. When we were there the last time, we went to Grandma's Cove, which is a little, horseshoe-shaped enclave of shoreline. We were the only people on the beach at that particular time of the afternoon, and the waves within the cove were churning up quite a commotion as the sun glistened off of them. Even though I have a video of it stored on my phone, it cannot compare to the experience of actually being there. It's possible that I won't ever see the cove in the exact same light again, but I still hold out hope that I will. The waves are retreating at the same rapid pace that the weather is shifting. In either case, I'm certain that I'll be surprised by what I see.