For a journey that promises eternal natural beauty, headland walks, tales from the past, and unbridled Celtic flair, take the Celtic Route.
While West Wales and Eastern Ireland are divided by the St. George's Channel, a body of water that joins the Irish and Celtic Seas, they have entwined histories, breathtaking landscapes and fauna, and hospitable cultures bursting with myth, legend, and song.
Drive the Celtic Route via the Welsh coastal counties of Carmarthenshire, Ceredigion, and Pembrokeshire to combine the two into a single (ferry-connected) road trip. Then on to Ireland's Wicklow, Wexford, and Waterford.
From across the water, hiking trails, little towns, lovely restaurants, historical landmarks, and hotels focused on nature all promise a relaxing getaway. A weeklong itinerary including all the highlights is provided here.
Wales
Day 1: Pembrokeshire, Ceredigion, and Carmarthenshire
We began our journey at the northernmost point of the Black Mountains in Carmarthenshire county and proceeded directly to Llyn Y Fan Fach. A breathtaking glacial lake tucked away in the Brecon Beacons National Park.
We decided to take the nine-mile circuit trek since we felt daring; it took us only four and a half hours and allowed us to enjoy Llyn Y Fan Fach in all of her sparkling, 25-acre splendor. The loop was easy to navigate with pleasant terrain, occasionally posing a challenge but remaining doable for a novice hiker like myself.
After spending the day outdoors, we drove into the center of Laugharne, where we checked into the Dylan Coastal Resort. Our stunning luxury lodge, perched alone on a cliff with a view of the Taf estuary and the Gower peninsula, captured our hearts immediately. Before we knew it, we were sipping champagne and unwinding in our already-heated hot tub.
Day 2
Going into town is a must if you're staying in Laugharne. A medieval castle and Dylan Thomas Boathouse, the famous writing location of the Welsh poet Dylan Thomas, welcomed us here. It is simple to understand why the author spent most of his days writing his most well-known work here because the whirling sand of the estuary surrounds it.
After that, we took a 30-minute drive to Tenby, a famous port town, where we spent the afternoon walking about and feeling the sand between our toes. We quickly started looking for a rest stop. We discovered The Qube Restaurant, a welcoming location for a delectable seasonal meal, halfway between Tudor Square and Tenby Harbour. If you want to linger until later, stop by their recently opened cellar bar for a smooth-talking cocktail called a Welsh Kiss.
Day 3
There are many ways to discover the Pembrokeshire coast's natural splendor, but we opted for a foraging lesson with local expert Craig Evans. We began digging in the woods for wild garlic. Then, on the rocky coast, we discovered how to get soft-shell clams and go cockle hunting. Our efforts finally paid off as we dined on a seafood BBQ with Craig's golden retriever and furry companion, Llew. He was "real lush," as the Welsh would say, and we fell in love.
From coastal drives to volcanoes: this list features the ultimate Northern California Road Trip: https://t.co/XqMUiQQE2v pic.twitter.com/7fu41w3C2h
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The Wildernest, a refuge hidden deep among the rolling hills of Ceredigion, was the destination we reached after the day after driving via winding country lanes. After a day spent battling the coastal elements, we had everything we needed as we relaxed in our little lodge next to the log burner. The best way to experience a stay is to curl up on the private veranda with a cup of tea and watch the sunrise over the meadow in the morning.
Day 4
We departed for the county of Ceredigion with an early start planned. We walked three kilometers on relatively flat terrain in walking boots from Aberporth to Tresaith, with enough fresh air to awaken the senses. There is much to see along the road, including rock pools, towns, and beaches. Before you leave, make sure to check the weather forecast.
In West Wales, it is mandatory to make the journey to St. David's, Pembrokeshire. The largest cathedral dates back to the sixth century and is located in the smallest city in Britain. You can explore the historic surroundings and awe at the stunning stained glass windows that feature scenes from Wales' patron saint, Saint David's, life. Please expect to be enthralled as soon as you enter; this place made us feel so peaceful. We sat in one of the many areas designed for silent contemplation and lit a candle.
Spend time exploring the high street, which is close to the cathedral and home to some upscale restaurants and adorable gift shops. We entered Grain, a small pizza joint with a unique menu that featured a delectable combination of Welsh and Italian flavors; Ndu-ja Like It Spicy and Land of My Fathers hit the spot. Because homemade pizza and craft beer are so famous, make reservations in advance. Iechyd da! (By the way, that is cheers in Welsh.)
Day 5
We spent a few hours visiting Strumble Head on the Pembrokeshire coast before bobbling to Ireland. We spent some time in the lookout hut in the hopes of spotting dolphins and young seals before driving to the highest point of the rocky promontory for unmatched views of the lighthouse. There are many hiking paths in the vicinity, with a wealth of rocky coves and Iron Age sites to explore if you have the time.
From here, we had a 10-minute drive to the Fishguard Ferry Port, where we boarded a ferry for Rosslare in the southeast of Ireland. We spent almost four hours on the Stena Line ship, relaxing in the afternoon.
Wicklow, Wexford, and Waterford
After arriving in the country's Ancient East, we traveled by car to Waterford, Ireland's oldest city. We left our luggage at Faithlegg, a wonderfully renovated 18th-century house hotel, and immediately went to the city's heart. We made our way to Bodega Restaurant and Bar to start the second part of our journey in style. We didn't want to leave because of the delicious meal that featured local, fresh food and Mediterranean flavors. I felt like I was in heaven when I had the linguine with prawns. Order It's about Thyme if you want a delicious cocktail; it will come with a bouquet of Thyme, a real olfactory treat.
Day 6
The ideal way to spend a day in Waterford is to see Irish culture, interact with locals, and discover the country's lengthy history.
It is imperative to visit the House of Waterford Crystal, renowned worldwide for producing the finest collectible crystalware. If you sign up for a VIP tour, you'll be taken through stunning craftsmanship, including delicate cutting and glassblowing.
We marveled at stunning handcrafted pieces, some of which had been ordered by the late Queen Elizabeth II, with inventive designs all around us. As we watched the mastery develop, we suddenly imagined our commission ideas.
Waterford Whisky is a distinctive distillery dedicated to natural flavors and offers additional local tours. You'll get to try some of their best concoctions, see how things are done, and discover why their farming practices are revolutionary in organic and biodynamic whiskey.
Day 7
The oldest working lighthouse in the world, Hook, JFK Memorial Park, and Slieve Coillte were just a few of the Irish treats that the County of Wexford provided for us. The peninsula is so simple to navigate that you could easily spend a day driving, pausing, and taking it all in.
Wexford
We were thrilled to be spending our last night at The Wild Rooms at Tara Hill Estate in keeping with the theme of embracing our natural surroundings and reconnecting with nature. Our Wexford-based luxury chalet was made of wood and had floor-to-ceiling windows that allowed it to blend in with the surroundings. We must stroll to the neighboring beach, where we even saw a seal. We stopped before going to sleep to enjoy the starry sky's peace and vastness.
Day 8
Wicklow
Throughout our road trip, we traveled in a circle, whether by design or luck. Our journey ended at the Valley of the Two Lakes in Wicklow after hiking through the Glendalough National Park. Similar to the first day of our excursion, we came across more stunning beauty spanning lakes. It served as the ideal capstone to our journey.
We chose the short but moderately complex climb that took us to the Poulanass waterfall and then onto the Upper Lake since we're a sucker for a good view. Spend the majority of your day here. Purchase parking for €4 and get a map from the Visitors Center. Follow the color designated for your route, and watch for colored arrows throughout the park. (Remember to bring your camera!)
We gave the forest one more wistful glance before turning around, inhaling deeply, ran our fingers through the twirling reeds, and bade farewell to the rushing energy coursing along the lake below us. Before you leave, you'll consider returning to this incredibly uplifting setting.