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Home / TRIP IDEAS / A-List Travel Advisors / The Magic of Oaxaca City Is Just Outside the Town, Surrounded by Soaring Mountains and Indigenous Traditions

The Magic of Oaxaca City Is Just Outside the Town, Surrounded by Soaring Mountains and Indigenous Traditions

2022-11-02  Maliyah Mah

Although Oaxaca City is a stunning destination in and of itself, you should also get a close-up look at the area's Indigenous pueblos and breathtaking surroundings.

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Oaxaca is a city that can cast spells, with a vibrant food scene, amazing regional arts, boutique hotels, and a historical vibe. The neighboring valleys and mountains, however, which are home to Indigenous pueblos carrying on long-standing artistic traditions, huge regional markets, and incredible climbs, have even more charm to offer. The very best? All of these activities are simple day trips from the city if you rent a car.

For advice on where to go, how to get there, what to buy, and where to stay on your upcoming trip to Oaxaca, continue reading.

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Teotitlán del Valle is home to many authentic handmade tapestries.
 

The historic core of Oaxaca is filled with tapes, or textiles, although many of them are mass-produced knockoffs or are marked up significantly. Go 45 minutes east instead to Teotitlán del Valle, a hamlet of indigenous people that still practice Zapotec weaving techniques that date back hundreds of years.

One of Mexico's most well-known sites for textile production is Teotitlan, and the iconic tapetes made there are sold in shops throughout the nation. Bulmaro Pérez, whose family has been making tapes for many years, is one of the most well-known local artists. He told Travel & Leisure, "We now represent the ninth generation to continue with this magnificent textile art.

The Pérez family's art is heavily influenced by their relationship to their Indigenous heritage. Visitors are encouraged to "appreciate the tradition and work" that the family's Zapotec forefathers have left behind. And depending on the scale of the sculpture, such a process may take up to 14 months. The Zapotec symbols, patterns, and their native countries serve as the inspiration for countless designs. The most well-known design in the studio, "Mountains and Rain," by Pérez, was influenced by the towering Sierra Norte just outside of town.

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For stunning alebrijes from San Martin Tilcajete, go straight to the source.
 

If you've traveled to Mexico, you could have brought back a few alebrijes. The genesis of alebrijes can be traced back to the fever dreams of Pedro Linares, an Indigenous Oaxacan living in Mexico City, although the vibrant patterns and magical animals you see today are a more recent development.

San Martin Tilcajete, a village located 45 minutes south of Oaxaca City, has established itself as the region's leading source for alebrije design. The figurines are carved from sacred copal wood by local artisans, who then paint them with traditional designs. The Workshop of Jacobo and Mara Angeles has grown to be the most well-known of the town's numerous studios, offering tours for tourists and community initiatives.

Since its establishment in 1994, this enormous complex on the arid outskirts of town has been home to artisans who carve nahual and tonnes (animals from the Zapotec calendar) out of copal (animal-human hybrids). A spokesperson of the studio informed T+L that "our items are tied to our Zapotec culture that we portray through distinct ancient codices." "For us, the copal is a sacred tree. The soul or spirit required for each of our compositions is provided by using this wood to make tonnes and nahual."

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The program also focuses on sustainability in the area by promoting the Palo Que Habla initiative, which protects and replants copal groves there, and strives to preserve Indigenous agricultural traditions.

With Barro Rojo from San Marcos Tlapazola, you may add some history to your house.
Famous eateries abound in Oaxaca's Centro, from the beautiful Criollo (headed by Luis Arellano and Enrique Olvera of Pujol) to secluded gourmet establishments like Teocintle. Is it the only thing they share? Dishware that is heavy and perfectly used and has a long history in the area.

Barro is one of Oaxaca's unique artistic creations, made from clay that was dug in the area's hillsides. Although there are many different finishes, Barro Rojo, which comes in hues from brick red to dark brown-black, is the original and has been made by the Indigenous populations of Oaxaca for centuries.

San Marcos Tlapazola, just over an hour from Oaxaca's capital, is where the barroco Rojo shines best. Despite modernization, ladies in this place maintain tradition. Barro Rojo was traditionally used to make cookware and dishes, but in San Marcos, you can choose from a beautiful selection of vases and other items that are all made from clay that the women mine themselves.

Get lost in Tlacolula Market's craziness.
 

The region's towns and pueblos come together every Sunday in Tlacolula de Matamoros for one of the biggest marketplaces in the state. It's less than an hour away from the city center and is a frenzy of sights, sounds, smells, and tastes that make Oaxaca City's marketplaces look boring.

Make sure you are hungry before you leave, and have plenty of cash and bags big enough to carry your goods. The chaotic maze of streets outside the market hall is crowded with sellers offering tejate (a sweet, foamy beverage made from cacao), tamales, roasted yucca, and chapulines (grasshoppers). Inside the market, countless stalls selling pan dulce, textiles, tlayudas, and other regional delicacies are accompanied by the wandering mariachis' melodies.

After refueling, make your way around booths selling practically anything you can think of, including cowboy hats, handwoven baskets, cooking molcajetes, live turkeys, and Virgen de Guadalupe T-shirts. It pays to arrive early because parking can be difficult, and items are far less expensive here than in the city center of Oaxaca.

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To see Oaxaca's wild side, drive up the Sierra Norte.
 

Oaxaca's terrain is an integral component of the art, culture, and food of the area, providing both resources and visual inspiration. The best part is that a lot of the most stunning landscape in the area is only a little over an hour away by driving.

The Sierra Norte's Santa Catarina Ixtepeji region is where desert landscapes give way to alpine trees after ascending a well-paved yet dizzying route. La Cumbre Ixtepeji ecotourism center is a private reserve located close to the settlement that offers a variety of hiking and mountain bike trails for hikers of all ability levels, as well as basic huts for overnight accommodations. Along the journey, numerous gorgeous vistas and clearings make for great picnic spots.

The well-known Pueblos Mancomunados has located a little distance from the city. These indigenous mountain towns are two to three hours from Oaxaca's city center and have established a well-kept network of paths and resorts. Many tourists wander between the towns for several days while they are there.

Accommodations in Oaxaca
 

The city's major attractions may be reached on foot in around 10 minutes from the outstanding boutique hotel El Diablo y la Sanda Boca del Monte. Each room is uniquely decorated, featuring soft hues, subtle Mexican accents, and very comfy beds. Owner Maria Crespo and her staff create a cozy ambiance around a patio filled with flowers. At a community table, days begin with amazing breakfasts, and in the evenings, laughing over mezcal fills the air.

Advice for Driving and Renting a Car in Oaxaca
 

Oaxaca automobile rentals are inexpensive and easy, however, booking in advance is advised. GPS systems typically function well in the area, but if you're going into the mountains, download offline maps. Although most highways are passable, ask your accommodation about protests (bloqueos), which frequently shut down key arteries. Parking on the street is simple, however, be aware that many lots are closed on Sundays.


2022-11-02  Maliyah Mah