Travel Reviews, News, Guides &Update; Tips

Header
collapse
...
Home / TRIP IDEAS / A-List Travel Advisors / Here's How to Plan the Perfect Visit to This Underrated Italian Region, a Less-Traveled Alternative to Cinque Terre

Here's How to Plan the Perfect Visit to This Underrated Italian Region, a Less-Traveled Alternative to Cinque Terre

2022-11-01  Maliyah Mah

Alternatives to Cinque Terre include the quieter, larger Bay of Poets on the Ligurian coast.

Articles on "Where to Go Next" come and go, but the sheer volume of magazine covers, television shows (such as Buongiorno, and Stanley Tucci), and Instagram feeds that feature Italian cities and landmarks demonstrates that America's love affair with the country never fades. While emerging tourist destinations like Sicily and Puglia are growing in popularity, traditional destinations like Rome, Florence, Venice, Lake Como, the Amalfi Coast, and Cinque Terre are still quite popular after the pandemic's travel ban.

Although Cinque Terre is located in a lesser-known area of Liguria, Rick Steves, the host of the PBS travel show, is responsible for making the five dizzying settlements famous. I have a great deal of regard for Mr. Steves, and he was so persuasive that I trekked between these fishing villages in 2006 while on a backpacking trip, staying in a primitive homestay and experiencing train disruptions because of strikes. I cherished every second of it.

Since then, Cinque Terre has been rather over-discovered, with big crowds that aren't out of place at a theme park. Although there are no cars on the streets, there are still tourists around. When I was herded up the stairs and waited my turn to position myself to shoot the identical picture that would probably appear in all of our social media postings during a recent trip to Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the villages, I came to this realization.

golfo-dei-poeti-1.webp
 

However, there is a lot more to the Ligurian coast. I had the opportunity to spend a few days in the Bay of Poets, or Golfo Dei Poeti, which is a popular destination for locals on this same trip, which occurred around Ferragosto, the annual August holiday that marks a two-week vacation for Italians. It's a place that is thankfully yet unspoiled by mass tourism. Explore an area of the Italian Riviera that inspired authors and poets like Dante, Shelley, and Lord Byron by establishing your base in one of the following towns.


All of these locations are easily accessible utilizing one or more modes of transportation, such as a moped, rental vehicle, bus, or boat. There aren't any big resorts in the area, which is a wonderful change; instead, guests stay in boutique hotels, family-run bed-and-breakfasts, and Airbnbs.

La Spezia
 

Los Spezios
 

This bustling port city is frequently used as a base by those exploring the Bay of Poets, and it maintains its vitality thanks to Italy's largest naval base and a cruise ship terminal that serves tourists going straight to both Pisa and Cinque Terre. But those who look deeper will find an exquisite downtown with a daily market in Piazza Cavour (Monday through Saturday), where inhabitants gather to get their daily supply of food, fresh fish, cheese, and cut flowers. Buy some local pesto, a staple in Liguria, and then go shopping after ordering an espresso, if not more.

From here, you may stroll in the direction of the water while admiring the impressive Art Nouveau apartment complexes, lovely alimentari, and modest — and occasionally Michelin-starred — eateries. Take a stroll down Costantino Morin's palm-lined promenade and the gardens that are connected there to reach the Thaon di Revel pedestrian bridge, which is made of white steel. You can board seasonal boats from this location to the nearby Porto Venere (more on this later) and the island of Palmaria, which has beaches and hiking paths. Alternatively, stay in the area and visit the Technical Naval Museum before enjoying an IPA at La Spezia Brewing Company. A hilltop fort and castle from the fourteenth century also include objects from the nearby archaeological site.

Lerici
 

Lerici
 

Lerici, which is close to La Spezia, is a wonderful place to enter by car. The port town's center is warm and welcoming, and its pastel colors could easily be mistaken for those of a village in Cinque Terre. Choose from one of the outdoor cafes serving aperitivos close to bobbling boats while you see folks doing their passeggiata—a stroll—along the promenade. When it's time to eat, stop by one of the many fish restaurants in the main square, which is complemented by a castle built on a peninsula in the 12th century. Alternately, go upward up a winding street with various dining options that end at a charming chapel. It's likely that after a few Aperol or Hugo spritz, you'll begin to consider relocating permanently to this wonderful location. If you're visiting during the day, bring a swimsuit and take a trail that leads to Tellaro, a fishing community.

The Serra
 

With nothing in your way but a slope of olive trees, this tiny, unassuming village offers breathtaking views of the Bay of Poets and is located high above Lerici. Discover the stairways, piazzas, and passageways after you've found parking. There isn't much else to do besides get a table at the neighborhood cafe, drink a Campari and soda (supposed to increase hunger), look out over the Mediterranean, and listen to church bells. For dinner, you may either drive a little further into the mountains to Osteria di Redarca or stroll to Osteria L'Orto di Ameste for a seasonal meal.

Montemarcello
 

Hikers who are making use of Parco Naturale Regionale di Montemarcello, which provides a variety of trails through olive orchards, pine trees, and maquis shrubland with breathtaking views overlooking the Bay of Poets, are drawn to this picturesque hilltop community. If you merely want to take some gorgeous pictures of the Magra River and the Apuan Alps, which are not covered in snow but rather in Carrara marble, this also makes for a lovely drive. After all, this is the world's capital of marble.

Sarzana
 

Sarzana
 

It is worthwhile to explore this quaint small village behind Lerici on the other side of the Magra River, especially given its streets devoid of tourists. It appears to have a Tuscan flare because it is close to the border with Tuscany. The historic district, which is centered on a castle, has charming tiny lanes lined with antique shops, artist stalls, women's boutiques, and restaurants and cafes that come alive at night. There is an outdoor market that sells food and clothing every Thursday.

The thanks
 

This undiscovered treasure of a coastal community is set between docks of colorful boats and a lovely hillside on the way to Porto Venere by car, moped, or bus. It has a tiny beach and a few adorable cafes where you can grab a gelato and stroll down a seaside promenade where there are lots of spaces to spread out and catch some sun.

Porto Venere
 

Town of Venere
 

Compared to Portofino and Cinque Terre, it receives fewer visitors. Because Porto Venere, unlike Cinque Terre, is not accessible by train from La Spezia, it receives less travel than Cinque Terre. You'll be oohing and ahhing and wondering why you haven't been here before, though, once you arrive at this gorgeous UNESCO-listed beachside location by boat, vehicle, or bus. Take a stroll through the Old Town's vibrant streets while enjoying a slice of focaccia (another Ligurian treat). Look for a passageway leading to Byron's Grotto after snapping pictures through the stone arched windows. This place was named after the poet's preferred swimming and meditating location in the early 1800s. (Bring a bathing suit.)

Light a candle at the Church of St. Peter before making your way back to the coastline past a collection of rocks and swimming holes popular with Ligurians seeking the sun. Many cafes serve up fresh salads and shellfish that can be paired with Ichnusa, a beer manufactured in Sardinia. For more views of the Bay of Poets, go up to Doria Castle or Forte del Muzzerone and its tiered gardens if you still have the stamina. A ferry ride to the island of Palmaria is another option, where you may spend the day hiking, swimming, and eating fresh seafood.

Pietrasanta and Lucca
 

The Ligurian border's Bay of Poets region is delightfully close to Tuscany, with quick access to cities like Lucca and Pietrasanta. Giacomo Puccini was born in Lucca, an exquisitely maintained walled city. There is a large walkway that rounds the town for 2.5 miles, making it possible to cycle, jog, or walk. Visit his villa on Lake Massaciuccoli, where the Puccini Festival with live performances takes place every summer, or the Puccini Museum to see where he resided in the center of Lucca.

Michelangelo used to buy marble in Pietrasanta, which is a little closer to Liguria. Present-day visitors to the town include international filmmakers like Mexican-born Alfonso Cuarón (director of "Gravity" and "Roma"), who now calls Pietrasanta home, as well as artists who have come to set up bronze and marble workshops. In this subduedly smart town, spend a day strolling amid life-size sculptures, workshops, art galleries, and transient exhibitions.

Riomaggiore
 

Riomaggiore
 

If you want to spend enough time in the Bay of Poets region and want to see Cinque Terre, head there early in the day, preferably on a weekday, before the people begin to arrive on the trains. Make a reservation at a waterfront restaurant like Nessun Dorma if you'd prefer to go later in the day to avoid the throng and enjoy the views from your private vantage point (no elbows here).


2022-11-01  Maliyah Mah