Montenegro is the undervalued European jewel that should be on everyone's radar, with its glistening beaches and cobbled cities. Here, Jonathan Wiggin lists his recommendations for the finest tourist destinations in the nation.
If I could travel back in time, I would choose to come to Montenegro during the summer rather than a wet winter night on a plane from Moscow ten years ago. I would lie back on the deck of a classic sailing yacht with a glass of Champagne in my hand and watch the boat pass through the narrow strait that marks the entrance to the beautiful Bay of Kotor. Here, a thin fringe of terracotta-roofed village homes, small beaches, merchants' palaces, and the bobbing masts of moored boats separates the limestone mountains from the clear, calm water in which they cast their rippling reflections. The sky and sea are the same brilliant blue color as the cupola of an island church ahead of me.
Montenegro
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I resided in a Montenegrin village for a large portion of the last ten years. Although for me the untamed beaches, hidden roads, and people who always want me to join them for moonshine much too early in the day make the country special, I also appreciate the world of superyachts, chic shops, and beach clubs that are just 20 minutes away.
Montenegro offers a sublime synthesis of modern comfort and rural charm that hasn't yet been overly smoothed out by the passage of an abundance of tourists, making it somewhere you should put near the top of your list of places to visit for a summer vacation this year. In addition to its breathtaking landscapes and a rich cultural heritage that combines Orthodox, Catholic, Italian, and Ottoman influences, Montenegro also offers a slower pace of life.
Here are some of the top tourist destinations in Montenegro to aid with your planning.
The Bay and Kotor
Kotor's cobblestone alleys, Venetian Republic palazzi, medieval town walls, and eponymous castle are unmissable. They sit atop one of the world's most ideal natural deep-water harbors, at the end of an inland bay that rivals any Norwegian fjord. Beyond the fortifications, a series of white stone settlements with little cottages for fishermen and sailors and the grand palaces of their commanders could be seen. Hugging the coast of the bay are the stunning churches where they prayed for a safe return before each expedition.
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Activities in Kotor
Walk around the walled old town and take a break under a stately poplar tree planted after the big earthquake of 1667 in the quiet Cinema Square. Then, go up a narrow alley with 16th-century houses. Make your way up the fortress's 1,350 so stairs to the summit, which towers 280 meters above the town, before enjoying a leisurely drive down the coast to the village of Stoliv and its ostentatious Italianate Church of the Mother of God. Make time for lunch at Mademoiselle, which is right by the water, on your way.
Accommodations in Kotor
The modest boutique Hotel Hippocampus in Kotor's Old Town is housed in a restored 17th-century structure and offers stylish accommodations in a great area. Palazzo Sbutega (pictured), an excellently renovated oceanfront residence with a tranquil stone-flagged courtyard and a swimming pool, is located a few miles around the bay in the charming coastal hamlet of Pranj. A private pontoon for swimming and lounging is located on the beachfront five meters from the front door. If you're traveling to a party, reserve one of the five guest rooms or take over the entire home.
Perast
The heart of Montenegro's nautical culture is Perast, which guards the entrance to the Bay of Kotor. Montenegro is a nation of highlanders and sailors. When Peter the Great established the Russian fleet, he brought his nobility here to learn to sail. At its peak, the waterways surrounding Perast were dotted with the masts of approximately 400 warships and commerce ships. An astounding sixteen churches compete for space with the big baroque stone houses of merchant princes, bishops, and admirals, as well as the towers designed to guard them, amid the small town's splendor, which is a reflection of its former strength.
Activities in Perast
Stop for fresh oysters and a glass of local white wine at Luka's Oyster Farm in the adjacent town of Ljuta if you're driving. Before boarding one of the regular boats to Our Lady of the Rocks, have a brief look at the little Perast town museum. The only man-made island in the Adriatic, where the 17th-century church now stands, was allegedly formed by sailors throwing rocks into the water for more than 200 years after a Virgin Mary image was discovered there in 1452.
Accommodations in Perast
It's hard to match the restaurant of Hotel Conté, which features exquisite seaside seating with views of Our Lady of the Rocks. Several old buildings in the town's center are filled with contemporary rooms. You won't regret asking for a room with a sea view.
The Lutica peninsula
The pleasantly rustic Lutica peninsula was only connected to the mainland by a paved road in the 1970s, and the rate of development has remained refreshingly sluggish despite being only 20 minutes from an international airport. Jackals may be heard calling to one another at night in the thick maquis beyond the terraced olive orchards, and turtles can be seen crossing the short, twisting road that circles the peninsula and connects its few little hillside hamlets during the day. Locals here offer handmade wine, fruit brandy, and delectable prut (Montenegrin prosciutto), while rugged trails lead to undiscovered beaches and Yugoslav subterranean caves.
Activities available in the Lutica Peninsula
Swim out to the St. Vavedenje island monastery off the untamed Arza beach before dining at Ribarsko Selo (pictured), which is close to the expansive Anjice beach, for some of the greatest seafood in the Adriatic. Take a quad-bike trip of the peninsula and explore the enormous, deserted Austro-Hungarian Kabala fortress, which is located just off Rose road. At the laid-back Adriatic Tavern, you can wind down your day with a sundowner and some grilled squid while watching the water turn to gold.
Accommodations in the Lutica Peninsula
Book a room at the enormous, kid-friendly The Chedi, which boasts views of the Adriatic and the Montenegrin Riviera and a private section of the adjoining Lutica Bay beach. Villa Stari Mlin, a 400-year-old traditional Montenegrin farmhouse with five bedrooms, a 10-meter private pool, gardens, and 180-degree views of the sea and mountains, is a more upscale option.
Herceg-Novi
The lively tiny town of Herceg Novi falls down a steep slope close to the Croatian border and under the shadow of the Orjen mountain range. A 17th-century Spanish fortress, a 14th-century Bosnian castle, and the 16th-century Ottoman Kanli Kula fortress, which in the summertime hosts excellent film, theater, guitar, and opera festivals in its open-air amphitheater, are all located within its boundaries. Additionally, there is a jewel-like Neo-Byzantine church of the Archangel Michael that blends Gothic and Romanesque details. For lunch, go to Konoba Feral in the thriving little port by the water. Here, octopus is grilled under a bell over open embers in the traditional Montenegrin manner to produce luscious meat.
Activities in Herceg-Novi
Book a private boat journey to the Blue Cave on the adjacent Lutica peninsula or schedule a wine tasting with a view of the ocean at the lovely Savina vineyard next to the monastery of the same name. Finish the day with dinner at the family-run Sikimi Tavern, located 700 meters above sea level in the historic hill hamlet of Lijebi and offering panoramic views of the whole Montenegrin coast. Reservations are required at least two days in advance.
Accommodations in Herceg-Novi
The elegant Hotel Lazure, located on the outskirts of the city, is built around a restored 18th-century Venetian Lazaret. It also features a spa with a sizable indoor pool and a lovely length of private beach.
Lake Skadar
The largest lake in the Balkans, Lake Skadar, is only a short drive from the shore and sprawls magnificently in a bowl of mountains right on the Montenegrin-Albanian border. The lake itself is home to an astounding diversity of birds and fauna, and the southern slopes of the lake are lined with medieval Orthodox monasteries and modest family vineyards.
Activities at Lake Skadar
Renting a kayak in the charming lakeside village of Virpazar is the finest way to explore the lake. Visit the family-run Buk Winery, where you may sample local cheeses, cured meats, wines, and brandies. The active 14th-century Beka island monastery may be seen in the distance from the sandy Murii Beach, which is an excellent place to swim on a day excursion down the lake's southern shore through tiny fishing settlements.
Accommodations at Lake Skadar
Although Lake Skadar is easily accessible by day from the coast, for an authentic Montenegrin experience, I suggest staying in one of the charming Pejanovi family's modest rooms at Villa Mond in the peaceful town of Limljani. Here, you will be treated to home-cooked meals and wine from the family vineyard.
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